Vintage Poljot 17 Jewels Gold-Plated Dress Watch (Likely 10-20 Micron Plating)
Watch (Dress Style, Square Case) · Yellow Gold plating; a classic warm tone typical of mid-century Soviet horology.
Purity: Gold Plated (likely 10-20 microns thick gold layer); Not solid gold. Base metal is likely brass or stainless steel.
Type
Watch (Dress Style, Square Case)
Purity
Gold Plated (likely 10-20 microns thick gold layer); Not solid gold. Base metal is likely brass or stainless steel.
Gold Type
Yellow Gold plating; a classic warm tone typical of mid-century Soviet horology.
Weight
35-45 grams (total watch weight); the actual gold content is negligible (likely less than 0.1g total).
Description
A vintage Soviet-era Poljot dress watch featuring a square gold-plated case and a 17-jewel manual wind movement. The dial features stick indices and baton hands, representing the utilitarian elegance of Cold War-era Eastern European design.
Key Features
Poljot branding; 17-jewel mechanical movement; English 'Made in USSR' marking indicating it was an export model.
Color & Finish
Pale yellow gold; the finish is highly worn with significant pitting and oxidation. Original high-polish finish is largely lost.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Labeled 'POLJOT' and '17 JEWELS' on dial. A tiny 'AU' stamp (often AU10 or AU20) is usually located between the lugs on these cases.
Dimensions Estimate
Case approximately 30mm x 30mm; standard vintage men's/unisex size.
Gemstones & Inlays
No external gemstones; internal movement contains 17 synthetic ruby jewel bearings.
Clasp & Closure
None visible (strap/bracelet missing). Standard spring bar lug attachments.
Chain & Links
N/A; Watch case only. Standard straight lug construction.
Craftsmanship Details
Mass-produced stamped case with a robust but basic mechanical movement. The plating application was functional rather than artisanal.
Authentication Indicators
Correct font for Poljot logo; '17 Jewels' marking; specific case wear consistent with Soviet-era base metal plating.
Origin & Maker
USSR (Soviet Union); First Moscow Watch Factory (Poljot). Poljot was the premier Soviet watch brand.
Era & Period
Late Soviet Era (1970s-1980s); identified by the minimalist indices and English-language dial for export.
Age Estimate
Likely manufactured between 1975 and 1985 based on the dial design and 'Made in USSR' (partially visible).
Cultural Significance
Represents the industrial output of the Soviet Union's high-precision manufacturing and their efforts to export luxury-style goods to the West.
Condition Notes
Poor condition. Significant 'brassing' (plating wear-through), heavy surface oxidation on the dial, and pitting on the case edges.
Value Estimate
$20 - $50 USD. The value is purely in the mechanical interest; there is virtually no scrap gold value in plated watches.
Care & Maintenance
Avoid all moisture; the seals are likely dry-rotted. Do not polish aggressively as the remaining gold plating is very thin and will rub off.
Similar Items
Vintage Raketa, Vostok, or Slava gold-plated watches; comparable Japanese Seiko or Citizen watches from the same era.
Interesting Facts
Poljot watches were worn by Yuri Gagarin during the first manned space flight, though he wore the 'Sturmanskie' model made by the same factory.