Sphinx Vintage Gold-Plated Costume Jewelry Brooch with Red Glass Cabochons
Brooch/Pin (Vintage Costume) · Yellow Gold plating; classic 1960s-70s warm yellow hue, likely achieved through a bath plating process over a pewter or brass alloy base.
Purity: Non-solid gold; high-quality gold plating over base metal. This contains no significant gold weight by fineness standards, as it is a specialty fashion alloy used in high-end costume jewelry.
Type
Brooch/Pin (Vintage Costume)
Purity
Non-solid gold; high-quality gold plating over base metal. This contains no significant gold weight by fineness standards, as it is a specialty fashion alloy used in high-end costume jewelry.
Gold Type
Yellow Gold plating; classic 1960s-70s warm yellow hue, likely achieved through a bath plating process over a pewter or brass alloy base.
Weight
Estimated 15-25 grams. As a cast costume piece, it has significant heft compared to contemporary mass-market fashion jewelry, but its value is derived from the brand name and design rather than melt value.
Description
A sophisticated example of British collectible costume jewelry, this Sphinx brooch embodies the opulence of the mid-20th century fashion jewelry movement. The reverse is finished with an intricate linear texture, while the front features rich red cabochons that mimic precious gemstones. It is a heavy, well-constructed piece designed to emulate the look of 'fine' high-jewelry at an accessible fashion price point.
Key Features
Signature 'SPHINX' oval stamp; deep textural engraving on the reverse; thick gold-tone plating; high-quality glass inserts; robust architectural casting.
Color & Finish
Deep yellow gold color with a textured 'bark' or 'brushed' finish on the reverse. The finish is designed to hide casting imperfections and add a luxury tactile feel, typical of mid-century British costume jewelry.
Hallmarks & Stamps
The brooch features the 'SPHINX' maker's mark enclosed in an oval cartouche. This is the signature stamp for the British company Sphinx, known for high-quality costume pieces. No purity stamps are present, as the item is not solid gold.
Dimensions Estimate
Estimated 45mm x 40mm. It appears to be a statement-sized accessory. The thickness indicates a sturdy, multi-layered cast construction.
Gemstones & Inlays
Features large, oval, deep-red glass cabochons (simulating garnet or ruby). These are likely foil-backed or set in closed-back gold-tone cups to enhance depth and light refraction.
Clasp & Closure
Assuming a standard safety pin clasp with a rolling catch, typical for Sphinx pins of this era. The reverse shows the structural housing where a pin stem would be attached.
Chain & Links
N/A; item is a rigid brooch. The structural frame features heavy, rounded prongs or 'dog-tooth' style settings to secure the stones, providing a bold, brutalist-inspired aesthetic.
Craftsmanship Details
Exceptional cast detail for costume jewelry. The 'bark' finish on the reverse is consistent and intentional, showing a level of finishing rarely seen in modern mass-produced items. The settings are thick and secure.
Authentication Indicators
The presence of the authentic 'SPHINX' stamp in the correct oval font; the weightiness of the metal; the specific textured pattern on the back which was a signature of their manufacturing process.
Origin & Maker
United Kingdom; Sphinx (a renowned British costume jewelry brand established in 1948 in Chiswick, London). Sphinx produced high-quality pieces for brands like Kenneth Jay Lane and high-end department stores.
Era & Period
Modernist/Retro (circa 1960s to 1970s). The textured metalwork and large glass inlays are hallmark design movements of this period.
Age Estimate
Circa 1960-1975 based on the style of the oval 'SPHINX' cartouche and the specific textured finish of the casting.
Cultural Significance
Represents the 'Golden Age' of costume jewelry when fashion pieces were treated as serious design objects, allowing women to wear high-fashion 'looks' inspired by Hollywood and European royalty without the cost of solid gold.
Condition Notes
Very Good vintage condition. There is minor thinning of the gold plating on high-relief edges (typical 'brassiness' or patina). The glass shows no major surface chips. The hallmark is crisp and legible.
Value Estimate
$40 - $85 USD. Value is entirely collectible/numismatic based on the brand 'Sphinx'. It carries zero intrinsic gold melt value, as the gold content is negligible (microns thick).
Care & Maintenance
Do not use jewelry cleaners or ultrasonics as they will strip the gold plating and damage the glass backing. Wipe with a dry microfiber cloth only. Store in a soft pouch to avoid scratching the plating.
Similar Items
Coro, Trifari, or Monet gold-tone brooches. While Monet is often sleeker, Sphinx is known for more 'substantial' and textured designs similar to KJL (Kenneth Jay Lane).
Interesting Facts
Sphinx was so well-regarded for their quality that they did not only sell under their own name but were the secret manufacturer for many famous fashion houses in the 50s and 60s. They ceased production in the late 1990s, making their signed pieces increasingly collectible.