Vintage German Art Deco Rolled Gold Cocktail Watch Case
Watch (Case and Bracelet Assembly) · Yellow Gold plating over base metal with a Stainless Steel case back (Stahlboden).
Purity: 20 Micron Rolled Gold (Walzgolddouble). This is not solid gold; it is a mechanical bonding of a thin layer of gold (likely 14K or 18K) over a base metal, equivalent to approximately 5% gold by weight of the gold-covered parts.
Type
Watch (Case and Bracelet Assembly)
Purity
20 Micron Rolled Gold (Walzgolddouble). This is not solid gold; it is a mechanical bonding of a thin layer of gold (likely 14K or 18K) over a base metal, equivalent to approximately 5% gold by weight of the gold-covered parts.
Gold Type
Yellow Gold plating over base metal with a Stainless Steel case back (Stahlboden).
Weight
Total weight approximately 10-15 grams. The gold content itself is negligible (less than 0.5 grams) due to the rolled gold construction.
Description
A refined example of German mid-century functional jewelry, this ladies' cocktail watch features a classic yellow gold-plated stepped case. Designed for elegance, the geometric lugs hold a traditional black cord strap, emphasizing the timepiece as a piece of evening wear jewelry rather than a mere utility tool.
Key Features
Stepped Art Deco case profile; distinctive German 'Walzgolddouble' hallmark; 20-micron thickness which was high-quality for its time; 'Stahlboden' indicates a durable stainless steel skin-contact surface.
Color & Finish
Yellow gold bezel and lugs with a high-polished finish; the case back features a vertical brushed/satin stainless steel finish. Visible patina and brassing on the lugs where the gold layer has worn thin.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Stamped 'WALZGOLDDOUBLE / 20 MIKRON' (20 micron rolled gold), 'STAHLBODEN' (Stainless steel base/back), and a maker's mark within an oval 'EBE'.
Dimensions Estimate
Case diameter approximately 15mm-18mm width (excluding crown); lug-to-lug length approximately 25mm. Standard ladies' cocktail watch size.
Gemstones & Inlays
None visible. The focus is on the geometric Art Deco stepped case design.
Clasp & Closure
Appears to be attached to a black cord/fabric strap with adjustable metal sliders or a fold-over clasp (partially obscured).
Chain & Links
The watch is mounted on a double black silk/nylon cord strap, a style popular for mid-century cocktail watches.
Craftsmanship Details
Machine-pressed case with hand-finished assembly. The '20 Mikron' stamp indicates a high-tier plating standard for the era, designed to withstand 10-20 years of daily wear before showing the underlying metal.
Authentication Indicators
Clear, deeply struck German hallmarks; period-correct case construction and font styles; visible layering of metals at wear points confirms it is rolled gold and not solid.
Origin & Maker
Origin: Germany (identified by the German terminology 'Walzgolddouble'). Maker: EBE (associated with various Pforzheim-based German casemakers).
Era & Period
Art Deco/Mid-Century transition. The 'Stepped' case design is a hallmark of late 1930s to early 1950s European horology.
Age Estimate
Circa 1940-1955. The use of 20-micron plating and 'Stahlboden' is characteristic of post-WWII German manufacturing.
Cultural Significance
Reflects the post-war era's desire for luxury aesthetics at accessible price points, allowing the emerging middle class to own elegant, gold-toned evening accessories.
Condition Notes
Very Good vintage condition. Light surface scratches on the stainless back; some 'brassing' or gold wear-through visible on the edges of the lugs where the cord rubs. Crown appears original.
Value Estimate
Market value is primarily as a vintage accessory/collectible, roughly $40-$85 USD depending on movement functionality. Melt value is near zero due to the base metal composition.
Care & Maintenance
Gently wipe with a soft microfiber cloth; avoid polishing compounds as they will strip the 20-micron gold layer. Keep away from moisture as the case is likely not water-resistant. Replace cord if fraying occurs.
Similar Items
Similar to vintage watches by Junghans, Laco, or Stowa from the same era; serves as a more affordable alternative to solid 14K gold cocktail watches from brands like Omega or Longines.
Interesting Facts
The German jewelry industry in Pforzheim was world-renowned for 'Walzgold' (rolled gold), which was considered superior to standard electroplating because the gold layer was physically fused and rolled onto the metal, making it much thicker and more durable.