Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Movable Teddy Bear Pendant/Brooch with Diamond Eyes
Pendant/Brooch - Figural Jewelry · Yellow Gold. A classic warm alloy likely containing silver and copper to retain its rich color.
Purity: 18K/750 (75.0% pure gold). This indicates a high-gold alloy content standard for luxury fine jewelry.
Type
Pendant/Brooch - Figural Jewelry
Purity
18K/750 (75.0% pure gold). This indicates a high-gold alloy content standard for luxury fine jewelry.
Gold Type
Yellow Gold. A classic warm alloy likely containing silver and copper to retain its rich color.
Weight
12.0 - 18.0 grams. The articulated parts and 3D volume suggest substantial weight, though it may be hollow-cast.
Description
A charming and luxuriously heavy 18K gold teddy bear. This piece features a distinctive 'bubbled' or hammered texture that mimics fur, with smooth polished accents on the ears and feet. Its most captivating feature is its fully articulated limbs, allowing for playful movement. The piece serves as a masterclass in whimsical fine jewelry design, blending high-carat materials with an endearing, sculptural form.
Key Features
Fully articulated 'jointed' limbs, high-relief 'craters/nugget' texture for fur simulation, and flush-set diamond eyes.
Color & Finish
Rich, high-karat yellow gold color with a dual finish: polished smooth paws and ears contrasted with a deep 'nugget' or hammered texture to simulate fur.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Expected marks of '750' or '18K' likely located on the reverse of the torso or the jump ring/bail. May include an Italian assay mark (e.g., *1234 AR) given the design style.
Dimensions Estimate
35mm x 22mm (approximately 1.4 inches tall). A medium-large statement charm or brooch.
Gemstones & Inlays
Two round brilliant-cut colorless stones set in the eyes. Appear to be small diamonds (~0.02ct total) or high-quality glass/CZ if a costume variant.
Clasp & Closure
Typically features a pin stem with safety trombone or C-clasp on the back, and a hidden bail behind the head for inclusion on a necklace chain.
Chain & Links
N/A (Pendant/Brooch); articulated pin-and-rivet joints allow the arms and legs to move independently, a sign of high-quality miniature sculpture.
Craftsmanship Details
Lost-wax casting with manual assembly of the five separate components (head/torso and four limbs). Precise riveting allows for movement without excessive play.
Authentication Indicators
The depth and consistency of the texture, the quality of the articulation (smooth movement), and the specific hue of 18K gold. Red flags would include seam lines from cheap casting or base metal showing through worn edges.
Origin & Maker
Likely European, specifically Italy or France. Large movable bear charms were popularized by brands like Pomellato or Chopard (Happy Diamonds line).
Era & Period
Modern/Retro Revival (c. 1980s-1990s). The textured gold and whimsical anatomical detail are hallmarks of late 20th-century luxury kitsch.
Age Estimate
Circa 1985–2000 based on the textured finish and articulation mechanism.
Cultural Significance
Represents the 'Comfort Jewelry' trend, where childhood motifs are elevated into heirloom-quality investments. Symbolizes nostalgia and affection.
Condition Notes
Very Good. The texture remains crisp; minor surface scratches on polished areas. Rivets in the joints appear secure. Toning in recessed areas adds depth.
Value Estimate
$1,100 - $1,600. Value is primarily derived from gold weight plus a significant premium for the articulation craftsmanship and design appeal.
Care & Maintenance
Clean with a soft brush and warm soapy water to reach gaps in the texture. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners if stones are foil-backed or loose. Store separately to prevent scratching other gold.
Similar Items
Chopard 'Happy Diamonds' Teddy Bear (usually features a glass belly), Pomellato Orsetto Bear, or Tiffany & Co. Teddy Bear charms.
Interesting Facts
The 'jointed' teddy bear in jewelry was popularized by the 20th-century fascination with Steiff bears; high-end versions in gold became status symbols in the 80s.