18K White Gold Vintage Ruby-Eyed Owl Milanese Mesh Bracelet
Bracelet (Milanese Mesh / Slide Link) · White Gold (likely rhodium-plated over a nickel or palladium alloy base, showing classic cool silvery-grey tones).
Purity: Likely 18K (750) or 14K (585) white gold based on styling and luster. Items of this craftsmanship tier in the Retro era often utilized high-purity 750 gold before rhodium plating.
Type
Bracelet (Milanese Mesh / Slide Link)
Purity
Likely 18K (750) or 14K (585) white gold based on styling and luster. Items of this craftsmanship tier in the Retro era often utilized high-purity 750 gold before rhodium plating.
Gold Type
White Gold (likely rhodium-plated over a nickel or palladium alloy base, showing classic cool silvery-grey tones).
Weight
35.0 to 45.0 grams. The wide mesh and figurative gold slide indicate substantial metal weight.
Description
An exquisite উদাহরণ of Mid-Century jewelry design, this wide Milanese mesh bracelet features a charming, sculptural owl slide in white gold. The owl is intricately detailed with textured feathers and vibrant ruby eyes, lending a whimsical yet sophisticated aesthetic to the piece. The mesh band is exceptionally flexible, designed to drape closely against the wrist like metallic silk.
Key Features
3D sculptural owl motif, woven Milanese mesh band, ruby-set eyes, and high-quality white gold construction. The slide mechanism (stationary or adjustable) is a hallmark of this era's functional luxury.
Color & Finish
Cool white metallic luster with a high-polished finish on the owl and a finely woven, reflective satin-effect on the mesh band. Minimal visible patina suggests possible recent replating or high-quality storage.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Usually located on the interior of the fold-over clasp or the back of the owl slide. Expected marks include 750 or 585 purity stamps and a maker's hallmark (likely Italian or French origin).
Dimensions Estimate
Mesh width approximately 20-22mm; Length approximately 7.0 to 7.5 inches; Owl slide approximately 25mm in height.
Gemstones & Inlays
Two round-cut natural Rubies, approximately 0.05 - 0.10 carats total weight, set as the owl's eyes in petite bezel or flush settings.
Clasp & Closure
Hidden box clasp with a safety catch, though the visible element features a slide-style decorative motif. Many mesh bracelets utilize a fold-over deployment style.
Chain & Links
Milanese mesh construction: a series of woven, interlocking wire spirals creating a flexible, fabric-like gold sheet with soldered edge boundaries to prevent fraying.
Craftsmanship Details
Highly complex wire-weaving process for the mesh, combined with lost-wax casting and hand-finishing for the owl component. High-quality soldering on the mesh terminals indicates professional manufacture.
Authentication Indicators
Weight distribution feels dense (consistent with solid gold vs. silver), weaving is uniform without gaps, and the stone setting on the rubies is precise. A hallmark check for '750' would confirm solid composition.
Origin & Maker
Likely European, specifically Italy (Arezzo or Vicenza regions) known for high-tier gold mesh work. Stylistically resonant with brands like Boucheron or Van Cleef & Arpels though likely a high-end atelier piece.
Era & Period
Modernist / Retro (circa 1950s-1970s). The owl motif gained significant popularity in the late 60s and 70s as a symbol of wisdom and bohemian luxury.
Age Estimate
Approximately 45-60 years old (circa 1965-1975).
Cultural Significance
Represents the shift in jewelry from formal Victorian styles to more playful, animalistic, and textured 'statement' pieces during the post-war economic boom.
Condition Notes
Very Good. The mesh appears straight without kinks or broken wires; the owl's features remain sharp. Slight surface wear visible on the polished V-accent near the clasp area.
Value Estimate
$2,800 - $4,200 depending on final weight. Value is split between substantial melt value (approx. 65-70%) and a significant design premium for the vintage figurative motif.
Care & Maintenance
Avoid ultrasonic cleaners if rubies are heavily included; use warm soapy water and a soft brush. Store flat to prevent the mesh from kinking. Periodic rhodium replating can maintain the crisp white luster.
Similar Items
Yellow gold mesh 'belt' bracelets, Bulgari Serpenti mesh watches, or David Webb animal-themed enamel cuffs.
Interesting Facts
Owls were among the most popular animal motifs in 1970s high jewelry, representing the 'night owl' socialite culture of the era. Mesh gold was popularized in the 19th century but perfected by Italian machines in the mid-20th century.