Vintage Trifari Gold-Tone Floral Brooch with Gripoix Glass
Brooch / Pin (Costume Jewelry) · Yellow Gold finish. The alloy used for the plating mimics the warm 18K-22K yellow gold tones popular in Mid-Century couture jewelry.
Purity: Non-solid; gold electroplated or wash. This is high-quality vintage costume jewelry, containing no measurable Karat gold content in the base metal, which is typically a non-precious alloy like pewter or spelter.
Type
Brooch / Pin (Costume Jewelry)
Purity
Non-solid; gold electroplated or wash. This is high-quality vintage costume jewelry, containing no measurable Karat gold content in the base metal, which is typically a non-precious alloy like pewter or spelter.
Gold Type
Yellow Gold finish. The alloy used for the plating mimics the warm 18K-22K yellow gold tones popular in Mid-Century couture jewelry.
Weight
Estimated 25 to 35 grams. The weight is derived from the base metal casting and the dense glass cabochons rather than gold content.
Description
A stunning exemplary piece of vintage couture costume jewelry, this floral-motif brooch features a pentamerous arrangement of rich, ruby-toned glass cabochons set within a heavy gold-plated frame. The reverse showcases Trifari's signature attention to detail with a fine florentine texture. Its bold profile and classic color palette make it a quintessential piece for collectors of 20th-century fashion history.
Key Features
Crown Trifari hallmark; 'Gripoix-style' poured glass inserts; high-relief floral casting; and the signature textured 'Trifanium' finish that resists tarnishing.
Color & Finish
Deep rich yellow gold finish with a textured 'bark' or 'florentine' effect on the reverse. The metal shows a matte-to-satin luster typical of Trifari's high-end 'Trifanium' plating process.
Hallmarks & Stamps
The 'TRIFARI' crown mark is visible on a rectangular raised cartouche on the reverse. A small circular stamp, likely a design number or copyright symbol, is located near the hinge.
Dimensions Estimate
Approximately 45mm to 55mm in diameter (standard oversized statement brooch size).
Gemstones & Inlays
Five outer circular cabochons and one central domed cabochon of poured 'Gripoix' style glass in a deep carnelian or oxblood red. These are faux-gemstones, intended to mimic semi-precious stones.
Clasp & Closure
Roll-over safety clasp with a long pinstem. The hinge and C-clasp are integrated into the casting, providing high security characteristic of mid-20th-century designer costume pieces.
Chain & Links
Not applicable; however, the reverse features a textured, concentric circular frame construction that provides structural rigidity to the floral petal design.
Craftsmanship Details
High-quality die-cast construction with hand-polished edges. The textured reverse hides casting marks and provides a luxury feel, while the integrated safety catch reflects superior engineering compared to modern mass-market jewelry.
Authentication Indicators
The presence of the embossed Trifari cartouche with the crown over the 'T' is the primary indicator. The quality of the plating and the weight of the piece are consistent with authentic mid-century Trifari production.
Origin & Maker
United States; manufactured by Trifari, Krussman & Fishel. Trifari was one of the most prestigious American costume jewelry houses, known for hiring Alfred Philippe (formerly of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels).
Era & Period
Mid-Century Modern / Retro (circa 1950s-1960s). The textured metal and use of bold glass cabochons are hallmarks of this era's 'Costume Jewelry Golden Age'.
Age Estimate
Likely produced between 1955 and 1969, based on the specific 'Crown Trifari' font and the copyright symbol usage.
Cultural Significance
During the mid-20th century, such brooches were essential fashion accessories for the 'power dressing' of the era, popularized by First Ladies (like Mamie Eisenhower) and Hollywood starlets.
Condition Notes
Very Good vintage condition. Minimal plating wear on high points; glass cabochons appear secure with no visible chips; pin stem is straight and the safety clasp functions smoothly.
Value Estimate
Market value is $75 - $150 USD based on collector demand. Its value lies in its brand name and design rather than melt value, which is negligible ($0 gold value).
Care & Maintenance
Do not submerge in water or use ultrasonic cleaners as this can damage the foil backing or adhesives of the glass. Wipe with a dry, soft microfiber cloth. Store in a padded box to prevent scratches to the plating.
Similar Items
Coro Craft pieces (often sterling-based), Boucher floral pins, or Kenneth Jay Lane glass-set brooches. Solid gold versions from this era would usually be marked 14K or 18K and feature hand-set natural stones.
Interesting Facts
Trifari developed its own gold-toned alloy called 'Trifanium' which was so durable that it was often mistaken for solid gold. Their lead designers frequently transitioned from fine jewelry houses, bringing 'Fine Jewelry' aesthetics to the masses.