18K Yellow Gold French Retro Ribbed Signet Ring
Ring (Signet/Statement) · Yellow Gold, featuring a rich, deep saturation characteristic of high-karat European alloys.
Purity: 18K (750/1000 fineness), consisting of 75% pure gold alloyed with copper and silver for durability.
Type
Ring (Signet/Statement)
Purity
18K (750/1000 fineness), consisting of 75% pure gold alloyed with copper and silver for durability.
Gold Type
Yellow Gold, featuring a rich, deep saturation characteristic of high-karat European alloys.
Weight
12.0 - 18.0 grams, suggesting a substantial, heavy-gauge solid construction.
Description
A striking example of mid-century French jewelry design, this 18K gold ring features a bold, 'Tank' style architectural face. The top is composed of five horizontal raised ribs that transition smoothly into a heavy, polished tapered shank. Its massive proportions and warmth reflect the glamour of the late 1940s French jewelry scene.
Key Features
Exterior French Eagle's Head hallmark; bold tiered ribbing; significant gold mass; seamless transition from face to shank.
Color & Finish
Warm traditional mustard-yellow with a high-polish finish on the shank and softened luster on the ribbed detail.
Hallmarks & Stamps
French Eagles Head (Tête d'Aigle) hallmark partially visible in a square cartouche on the exterior shank, indicating 18K gold.
Dimensions Estimate
Approximately 15mm-18mm wide at the top, tapering to 5mm at the base; estimated US ring size 9-11.
Gemstones & Inlays
None; the design relies entirely on the architectural gold-work and play of light on the ribbed surface.
Clasp & Closure
Not applicable (solid ring band).
Chain & Links
Substantial tapered band with a flat internal profile and convex exterior 'D-shape'.
Craftsmanship Details
Likely lost-wax cast followed by intensive hand-finishing and polishing to achieve the precise definition between the ribs.
Authentication Indicators
Hallmark location on the outer shank (standard for France); deep yellow color consistent with 18K; sharp casting lines.
Origin & Maker
France; the exterior placement of the hallmark is a diagnostic trait of French jewelry production.
Era & Period
Retro Period (1935-1950), characterized by 'Gaspipe' (Tubogas) and ribbed 'Bombé' architectural styles.
Age Estimate
Circa 1940-1950 based on the bold ribbed aesthetic and exterior hallmark positioning.
Cultural Significance
Represents the 'Joaillerie d'Art' movement in post-war Paris, where gold was used as a primary sculptural medium.
Condition Notes
Very Good; minor surface abrasions and patina consistent with age. No evidence of thinning or resize scars.
Value Estimate
$1,200 - $1,800 based on gold weight plus a 40-60% premium for French origin and Retro era collectability.
Care & Maintenance
Clean with warm soapy water and a soft brush; professional buffing can restore the high-polish shine.
Similar Items
Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo rings, Cartier Tank rings, or standard 14K modern ribbed bands (which lack the weight and hallmark prestige).
Interesting Facts
During WWII, French jewelers favored bold, heavy gold designs without gems because precious stones were scarce, leading to the iconic 'Retro' look.