Mid-Century Brutalist Gold-Plated Costume Statement Piece
Jewelry (Likely Ring or Brooch) · Yellow gold finish (simulated). The tone is a brassy, deep yellow indicative of fashion jewelry alloys.
Purity: Non-solid; base metal with gold plating or wash. The high degree of surface pitting and dark oxidation suggests a low-karat wash or costume plating rather than solid gold.
Type
Jewelry (Likely Ring or Brooch)
Purity
Non-solid; base metal with gold plating or wash. The high degree of surface pitting and dark oxidation suggests a low-karat wash or costume plating rather than solid gold.
Gold Type
Yellow gold finish (simulated). The tone is a brassy, deep yellow indicative of fashion jewelry alloys.
Weight
15 to 25 grams, depending on whether it is a ring or a brooch. The irregular, chunky form suggests substantial heft for its size.
Description
This striking Brutalist-style piece captures the raw, organic energy of the mid-20th-century avant-garde movement. Featuring a deeply textured gold-tone frame that mimics molten metal or volcanic rock, the piece centers on a sharp, geometric dark stone that provides a stark contrast to the chaotic metalwork. It is a bold statement of mid-century fashion, designed to be worn as a conversation piece.
Key Features
Deeply recessed textures, jagged 'shag' edge, and a central table-cut slab stone characteristic of the 'ugly-cool' aesthetic of the 1970s.
Color & Finish
The finish is an antiqued yellow gold with a high-relief, irregular texture. There is significant patina and darkening in the recessed areas, likely caused by oxidation of the base metal underneath the plating.
Hallmarks & Stamps
No hallmarks are visible in this macro profile shot. Costume pieces of this era often featured a maker's cartouche on the reverse side or inner band.
Dimensions Estimate
Approximately 30mm x 25mm for the face; if a ring, likely size 6-8; if a brooch, standard lapel size.
Gemstones & Inlays
Centrally featured is a large, dark grey/black hematite or glass cabochon/table-cut stone. It appears to be an opaque 'hematone' glass or a synthetic mineral typical of mid-20th-century costume jewelry.
Clasp & Closure
Not visible; likely a standard pin-back for a brooch or a simple thick band for a ring.
Chain & Links
Not applicable. The item features a cast, textured 'lava' or 'bark' frame around the central stone.
Craftsmanship Details
Cast metal construction with a cold-set stone. The metalwork is designed to look hand-forged or 'random,' though it is likely a mass-produced cast from a carved wax original.
Authentication Indicators
Red flags for solid gold include the uneven wear (plating loss), the grainy texture of the casting which suggests a centrifugal cast base metal, and the lack of high-purity brilliance.
Origin & Maker
Unidentified; style is reminiscent of makers like Sarah Coventry, Monet, or independent artisans of the late 1960s who favored organic, cast-gold-tone textures.
Era & Period
Brutalist era (circa 1960s-1970s). This is evidenced by the jagged, organic, and architectural metalwork that defines the 'Brutalist' aesthetic in jewelry.
Age Estimate
Likely manufactured between 1965 and 1975 based on the casting style and stone choice.
Cultural Significance
Reflects the 1970s shift toward 'Earth' tones and organic forms in fashion, moving away from the refined elegance of the 1950s toward more expressive, sculptural wearable art.
Condition Notes
Condition is Fair to Good. Assessment shows significant 'brassing' where the gold plating is thinning, exposing a darker base metal. The stone shows surface abrasions and some chipped edges on the facets.
Value Estimate
Subjective/Collector Value: $25 - $65. The value resides in the design aesthetic and vintage appeal rather than precious metal content.
Care & Maintenance
Do not use jewelry cleaner or ultrasonic cleaners, as they will strip the remaining plating. Wipe with a dry microfiber cloth only. Store in a dry environment to prevent further oxidation.
Similar Items
Modernist gold-plated jewelry from Kramer of New York or high-end vintage costume pieces by Christian Dior (which often used similar heavy textures but with higher quality plating).
Interesting Facts
Brutalist jewelry was a reaction against the sleek, polished lines of traditional jewelry, drawing inspiration from chunky architectural concrete structures of the post-war era.