Modernist Brutalist Rose Gold Rectangular Brooch
Brooch/Pin · Rose Gold (High copper-to-silver alloy ratio giving it a distinct reddish-brown archival tone).
Purity: 14K or 18K (likely 585 or 750 purity based on the rich bronze-red hue indicating high copper content). This represents 58.5% or 75% pure gold.
Type
Brooch/Pin
Purity
14K or 18K (likely 585 or 750 purity based on the rich bronze-red hue indicating high copper content). This represents 58.5% or 75% pure gold.
Gold Type
Rose Gold (High copper-to-silver alloy ratio giving it a distinct reddish-brown archival tone).
Weight
15.0 - 25.0 grams (Based on the thick, cast nature of the sculptural elements and broad base plate).
Description
An exceptional example of the Brutalist jewelry movement, this rectangular rose gold brooch features two abstract human figures in high relief, appearing to reach toward one another across a textured, tectonic landscape. The piece evokes the tension and organic chaos typical of mid-century studio jewelry.
Key Features
High-relief abstract figurative sculpture; 'lost wax' casting texture; distinct rectangular 'canvas' plate; artisanal maker's mark in bottom right corner.
Color & Finish
Oxidized Rose Gold; features a heavily textured, matte, and pitted 'earthy' finish with high-relief sculpted figures and a dark patina in recessed areas.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Indistinct monogram or maker's mark in the bottom right corner (possibly an 'E' or 'P' stylized); purity stamps likely located on the reverse pin assembly (unseen).
Dimensions Estimate
Width: 75mm (approx. 3 inches), Height: 20mm, Thickness at highest relief: 5mm. Oversized statement fit.
Gemstones & Inlays
None. The piece relies entirely on high-relief metal sculpture (negative and positive space) rather than gemstones.
Clasp & Closure
Presumed long pin stem with a revolving safety catch or 'trombone' clasp on the reverse side, consistent with mid-century heavy European brooches.
Chain & Links
N/A; Back profile is likely flat or slightly concave following the casting mold, with a horizontal structural pin bar.
Craftsmanship Details
Lost-wax casting (cire perdue); the relief is integrated into the base plate, showing high technical skill in metal flow and cooling to avoid porosity.
Authentication Indicators
Weight consistency with cast gold; crispness of the maker's stamp; naturally occurring oxidation patterns in copper-heavy rose gold alloy; lack of 'flaking' suggests solid gold rather than plated cast base metal.
Origin & Maker
Likely Scandinavian or Israeli origin (notable regions for brutalist gold work), potentially a studio piece from an independent artist-goldsmith.
Era & Period
Modernist / Brutalist Movement (Late 1950s - early 1970s). Defined by raw, unrefined textures and abstract figurative forms.
Age Estimate
Circa 1960–1975 based on the 'lost wax' casting technique and stylistic abstract figures.
Cultural Significance
Represents the post-war avant-garde movement in wearable art, where jewelry was viewed as 'miniature sculpture' rather than just a display of wealth via stones.
Condition Notes
Good to Very Good. Significant intentional surface oxidation; no visible cracks or fractures; wear on the edges suggests it was a frequently worn statement piece.
Value Estimate
Melt value ($700-$1000) + Designer/Artistic Premium ($400-$800). Total: $1,100 - $1,800 depending on identification of the specific hallmark.
Care & Maintenance
Clean with a soft dry brush only; do not use ultrasonic cleaners or harsh chemicals as they will remove the intentional darkened patina on the textured relief.
Similar Items
Modernist pieces by Björn Weckström (Lapponia) or Henning Koppel for Georg Jensen. These differ in their use of 'spectrometer' textures or smoother organic curves.
Interesting Facts
Brutalist gold jewelry was a reaction against the 'perfect' polish of the Art Deco and Retro eras, emphasizing the honesty of the metal and the hand of the artist.