Vintage Dugena 14K Gold or Gold-Plated Silver Cocktail Watch on Crescent Link Bracelet
Watch, Bracelet Style · Yellow Gold plating over Silver alloy. The base metal is 92.5% silver as indicated by the 925 stamp.
Purity: Marked 0.925 Silver (Vermeil); possibly elements of 14K/585 or 10K/417 Gold plating. The external appearance suggests a heavy gold plating or high-quality gold wash over sterling silver (Vermeil).
Type
Watch, Bracelet Style
Purity
Marked 0.925 Silver (Vermeil); possibly elements of 14K/585 or 10K/417 Gold plating. The external appearance suggests a heavy gold plating or high-quality gold wash over sterling silver (Vermeil).
Gold Type
Yellow Gold plating over Silver alloy. The base metal is 92.5% silver as indicated by the 925 stamp.
Weight
25-35 grams (Total weight including movement and crystal).
Description
A sophisticated vintage ladies' cocktail watch by Dugena, featuring a highly stylized bracelet composed of curved, open-work crescent links. The piece bridges the gap between functional timepiece and bold statement jewelry. While the case back is marked 0.925 silver, the remaining gold finish indicates a vermeil treatment that has aged with a deep, characterful patina.
Key Features
Unique open-crescent link design, integrated case lugs, and authentic Dugena German hallmarking. Central oval watch head creates a focal point within the flowing geometry of the bracelet.
Color & Finish
Tarnished yellow gold finish with significant oxidation. Surface shows a mix of polished high points and heavy dark patina (toning) in recessed areas of the crescent links.
Hallmarks & Stamps
'DUGENA' brand mark, '0.925' fineness stamp in a rectangular frame (standard for Sterling Silver), and an additional small numerical mark likely indicating model or workshop.
Dimensions Estimate
Bracelet length approx. 6.5-7 inches; Watch head approx. 18mm x 22mm.
Gemstones & Inlays
None visible on the reverse; the dial side likely features a minimal mid-century aesthetic or small applied markers.
Clasp & Closure
Jewelry-style folding box clasp with integrated link design for a seamless visual appearance.
Chain & Links
Articulated crescent-shaped or 'C' links joined by simple tube hinges and pins. Hollow construction for the decorative link elements.
Craftsmanship Details
Die-stamped silver links with hand-assembled pin hinges. The movement is likely a manual-wind mechanical caliber typical of German mid-century production.
Authentication Indicators
Clear '0.925' stamp and official Dugena logo. The tarnish color (black/purple hues) is consistent with high-grade silver base metal rather than brass or steel.
Origin & Maker
Germany; Dugena (Deutsche Uhrmacher-Genossenschaft Alpina), a prominent German watchmakers' cooperative.
Era & Period
Mid-Century Modern (circa 1950-1970). The geometric, organic link shapes are characteristic of European jewelry design from this period.
Age Estimate
Produced circa 1960-1965 based on the branding style and link architecture.
Cultural Significance
Represents the 'Cocktail' era of women's fashion where watches were disguised as or integrated into high-fashion jewelry for social events.
Condition Notes
Grade: Good/Fair. Heavy oxidation/tarnish present across all links. Gold plating is worn thin in high-contact areas, revealing the silver beneath. Movement functionality is unknown.
Value Estimate
$150 - $350. The value is primarily in the vintage brand appeal and design rather than melt value, as the gold content is a thin surface layer over silver.
Care & Maintenance
Gentle cleaning with a silver-specific polishing cloth can restore luster; avoid ultrasonic cleaners which may damage the watch movement or strip remaining gold layers.
Similar Items
Vintage Alpina or Junghans cocktail watches; mid-century Scandinavian silver-gilt jewelry.
Interesting Facts
Dugena was founded in 1917 and became one of the most successful German watch brands by the mid-20th century, known for reliable movements and fashion-forward cases.