Vintage 18K Yellow Gold and Steel Rolex Datejust Ref. 69173 Ladies Watch
Watch (Bimetallic/Two-Tone Luxury Timepiece) · Yellow Gold (classic warm luxury alloy) paired with 316L or 904L stainless steel (Rolesor).
Purity: 18K (75% pure gold). The gold components are solid 18K yellow gold, common in Rolex Rolesor models, rather than plating.
Type
Watch (Bimetallic/Two-Tone Luxury Timepiece)
Purity
18K (75% pure gold). The gold components are solid 18K yellow gold, common in Rolex Rolesor models, rather than plating.
Gold Type
Yellow Gold (classic warm luxury alloy) paired with 316L or 904L stainless steel (Rolesor).
Weight
45-55 grams total weight. The actual gold weight is estimated at 12-18 grams depending on link count and hollow vs solid center links.
Description
A classic example of the Ladies Rolex Datejust in 'Rolesor' (Two-Tone). This timepiece features the iconic fluted gold bezel and the prestigious Jubilee bracelet. It represents a hallmark of status and reliability, combining the durability of steel with the prestige of solid 18K gold. The champagne or gold-toned crown and center links provide a warm contrast against the industrial steel case.
Key Features
Fluted 18K bezel, Jubilee bracelet, cyclops date magnifier (assumed), and 'Rolesor' bimetallic construction. The screw-down gold crown is a specific diagnostic trait.
Color & Finish
Rich yellow bezel and center links with high-polish finish; steel outer links are brushed/satin. Visible wear and minor surface patina on the gold center links.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Rolex crown logo on the clasp; 'ROLEX' and 'STEELINOX' stamped on the inner clasp blade. Model number (69173) and serial likely between lugs.
Dimensions Estimate
26mm case diameter (Standard Ladies size); 13mm lug width; Jubilee bracelet length approximately 6.5 to 7 inches.
Gemstones & Inlays
None visible on the exterior; the watch likely features an internal synthetic sapphire crystal and 29-31 functional ruby jewels within the movement.
Clasp & Closure
Fold-over deployment clasp with Rolex embossing. This is the traditional 'fliplock' or friction-fit box clasp signature of the era.
Chain & Links
Five-piece Jubilee link construction; 18K yellow gold center links with steel outer links. Known for high flexibility and 'liquid' drape on the wrist.
Craftsmanship Details
Precision Swiss assembly. Links are held by threaded screws or friction pins. The bezel is precisely fluted to catch light. High-quality finishing on the clasp hinges.
Authentication Indicators
Coronet logo shape, clasp stamping depth, and 'Rolesor' gold color. Red flag: The gap between the end-links and case suggests potential aftermarket parts or significant pin wear.
Origin & Maker
Switzerland; manufactured by Rolex S.A. in Geneva, a world-renowned leader in luxury horology.
Era & Period
Late 20th Century (Neo-Vintage); Late 1980s to early 2000s based on the case shape and clasp style.
Age Estimate
Produced circa 1985-1995. The visible wear patterns and bracelet stretch are characteristic of items 30+ years old.
Cultural Significance
The two-tone Rolex Datejust is the quintessential 'success' watch of the late 20th century, representing professional achievement and timeless Swiss quality.
Condition Notes
Fair to Good. Notable 'bracelet stretch' (sagging links), surface scratches, and grime buildup in the crevices. Movement health unknown; crown appears extended or loose.
Value Estimate
$2,500 - $3,800 USD secondary market value. Value is derived 80% from brand/collectibility and 20% from raw gold melt content.
Care & Maintenance
Requires professional ultrasonic cleaning for the bracelet to remove abrasive 'wrist paste'. Avoid chemical exposure; requires a pressure test for water resistance every 2 years.
Similar Items
Rolex Datejust 31mm (Mid-size), Tudor Prince Oysterdate (more affordable alternative), or Cartier Santos (Two-Tone).
Interesting Facts
The Datejust was the first self-winding chronometer wristwatch to display the date in a window on the dial in 1945.