Vintage German Art Deco 20 Mikron Gold-Plated Cocktail Watch Case
Watch (Cocktail) · Yellow gold-plated bezel and lugs with a stainless steel back (Stahlboden).
Purity: 20 Mikron Gold Double (approx. 5% gold by weight). This is a heavy gold plating/lamination over a base metal, roughly equivalent to 1/20th 12K or 14K Gold Filled in US standards.
Type
Watch (Cocktail)
Purity
20 Mikron Gold Double (approx. 5% gold by weight). This is a heavy gold plating/lamination over a base metal, roughly equivalent to 1/20th 12K or 14K Gold Filled in US standards.
Gold Type
Yellow gold-plated bezel and lugs with a stainless steel back (Stahlboden).
Weight
Total weight of watch case approx. 8-12 grams. Actual gold content is negligible (less than 0.5 grams total).
Description
A classic mid-century German ladies' cocktail watch case featuring a stepped Art Deco silhouette. The piece is constructed with a 20-micron thick rolled gold layer for durability, paired with a robust stainless steel back commonly found in functional luxury items of the postwar era. It represents the fine jewelry-adjacent watchmaking typical of the German Pforzheim region.
Key Features
20 Micron gold plating (highly durable for its time), stepped Art Deco case geometry, and distinctive German hallmarks identifying the material composition.
Color & Finish
Yellow gold finish on lugs/bezel; brushed stainless steel finish on the case back with visible vertical graining.
Hallmarks & Stamps
'WALZGOLDDOUBLE 20 MIKRON' (Rolled Gold Double 20 Microns), 'STAHLBODEN' (Steel Base), and an oval 'EPB' maker's mark.
Dimensions Estimate
Small ladies' cocktail size, approximately 15mm-18mm in width excluding crown. Standard Art Deco petite profile.
Gemstones & Inlays
None visible on the reverse; likely a simple dial on the front with no precious stones.
Clasp & Closure
Snap-on stainless steel case back; cord style black fabric strap with metal end-caps.
Chain & Links
Art Deco style cord strap typical of mid-century ladies' 'cocktail' watches.
Craftsmanship Details
Machine-stamped case with hand-finished brushing on the stainless steel. The gold layer is rolled (not plated), indicating a higher standard of mid-century industrial manufacturing.
Authentication Indicators
Characteristic German watchmaking stamps. The color contrast between the gold lugs and steel back is an authentic industrial design choice of the period. Lack of green oxidation suggests high-quality 20-micron plating.
Origin & Maker
Germany. The terminology 'Walzgolddouble' and 'Stahlboden' is German. The 'EPB' mark is likely a Pforzheim-based case maker.
Era & Period
Art Deco to Early Retro (late 1930s to 1950s). The geometric stepped-case design is quintessentially Art Deco.
Age Estimate
Circa 1940-1955 based on the style, German nomenclature, and mechanical watch design.
Cultural Significance
Represents the democratization of luxury in the mid-20th century, where German engineering provided durable, gold-appearance jewelry watches for the rising middle class.
Condition Notes
Good to Very Good. The 'Stahlboden' shows light surface scratching but no corrosion. The gold plating on the lugs appears intact with minor thinning at the edges visible under magnification. Grade: Very Good.
Value Estimate
Primarily collectible/horological value ($30-$80 USD depending on the movement's condition). Negligible gold melt value (less than $5).
Care & Maintenance
Wipe with a soft dry cloth. Avoid ultrasonic cleaning or commercial jewelry dips, as these can penetrate the mechanical movement or strip the gold lamination over time.
Similar Items
Often confused with solid 14K gold watches; distinguished by the '20 Mikron' and 'Stahlboden' (Steel Back) stamps. Similar in style to vintage Bulova or Hamilton cord watches but of German manufacture.
Interesting Facts
The term 'Walzgold' refers to a process where gold is mechanically bonded to a base metal using heat and pressure, resulting in a much thicker and more durable layer than modern electroplating.