Vintage Poljot 17 Jewels Gold-Plated Soviet Dress Watch
Watch (Mechanical Wristwatch) · Yellow Gold (typical Soviet-era alloy with a warm, slightly copper-leaning yellow hue).
Purity: Gold-Plated (Au 10 or Au 20 microns). This is not solid gold; it is a base metal (likely brass) electroplated with a thin layer of gold, typically 10-20 microns thick.
Type
Watch (Mechanical Wristwatch)
Purity
Gold-Plated (Au 10 or Au 20 microns). This is not solid gold; it is a base metal (likely brass) electroplated with a thin layer of gold, typically 10-20 microns thick.
Gold Type
Yellow Gold (typical Soviet-era alloy with a warm, slightly copper-leaning yellow hue).
Weight
35-45 grams (Total weight including movement). The actual gold content is negligible, usually less than 0.5 grams of fine gold total across the plating.
Description
A classic example of Soviet horology, this Poljot dress watch features a gold-plated case and a minimalist dial. While Poljot produced some solid gold pieces for high-ranking officials, the visible 'brassing' and corrosion on the case edges indicate this is a plated consumer model. It represents the utilitarian yet elegant design language of the Cold War era Eastern Bloc.
Key Features
Rounded square case, ultra-slim baton indices, 17-jewel manual wind movement, and 'Made in USSR' designation.
Color & Finish
Faded yellow gold with significant oxidative patina and pitting. Original finish was likely high-polish. The dial is a champagne/cram sunburst that has suffered environmental spotting.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Usually stamped 'Au 10' or 'Au 20' between the lugs. The dial is marked 'POLJOT', '17 JEWELS', and 'MADE IN USSR' (transliterated from Cyrillic).
Dimensions Estimate
Approximately 32mm to 35mm case width (excluding crown). Lug width likely 18mm.
Gemstones & Inlays
None. The '17 Jewels' refers to synthetic rubies used as bearings within the internal mechanical movement to reduce friction.
Clasp & Closure
Assuming a standard buckle if a strap were present; case back is usually a stainless steel snap-on or ring-lock design.
Chain & Links
N/A (Watch head only). The case edges are rounded-square ('TV dial' style) with integrated lug holes.
Craftsmanship Details
Mass-produced industrial assembly. Stamped base metal case with electroplated finish. The movement is a reliable, workhorse manual-wind caliber (likely a 2614 or similar).
Authentication Indicators
Authentic Soviet construction. The plating wear exposing the base metal is a primary indicator that this is not solid gold. Magnetic testing would likely show a pull from the internal steel components.
Origin & Maker
USSR (Soviet Union), manufactured by the First Moscow Watch Factory (Poljot).
Era & Period
Soviet Era / Mid-Century Modern influence (circa 1970s-1980s).
Age Estimate
Circa 1975-1985 based on the dial typography and case shape.
Cultural Significance
Poljot was the premiere watch brand of the Soviet Union, symbolizing the industrial and technological aspirations of the USSR during the Space Race.
Condition Notes
Fair to Poor. Significant plating loss (brassing) on the case edges, heavy oxidation/dirt on the dial, and scratches on the acrylic crystal. The crown appears missing or recessed.
Value Estimate
$20 - $50 USD. The value is purely as a vintage collectible/project piece. It has no significant 'melt value' because the gold plating is too thin to recover economically.
Care & Maintenance
Do not submerge in water; vintage watches are not water-resistant. Use a soft dry cloth only. The movement requires a professional horological service (COA) to function accurately.
Similar Items
Vostok (Boctok) gold-plated watches, Luch ultra-slim watches, or Raketa 'Big Zero' models from the same era.
Interesting Facts
Poljot watches were worn by Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space. The brand name 'Poljot' actually means 'Flight' in Russian.