Vintage 18K Yellow Gold LIP Cocktail Watch with Textured Link Bracelet
Watch (Cocktail/Jewelry Watch) · Yellow Gold (Rich warm alloy likely containing copper and silver)
Purity: Likely 18K (750 fineness) or 14K (585); French LIP gold watches are historically 18K solid gold, containing 75% pure gold.
Type
Watch (Cocktail/Jewelry Watch)
Purity
Likely 18K (750 fineness) or 14K (585); French LIP gold watches are historically 18K solid gold, containing 75% pure gold.
Gold Type
Yellow Gold (Rich warm alloy likely containing copper and silver)
Weight
Estimated 25 to 35 grams including movement; gold weight approximately 18-22 grams.
Description
This elegant vintage cocktail watch by LIP embodies mid-century French luxury. It features a round, petite case surrounded by a diamond-cut textured bezel, paired with a stunning, wide articulated gold bracelet. The dial shows a shimmering sunburst or honeycomb texture that complements the intricate engraving of the bracelet links.
Key Features
Mechanical hand-wound movement, unique cross-hatched and ribbed bracelet texture, and the iconic French 'LIP' branding on the dial.
Color & Finish
Deep yellow gold color with a mix of diamond-cut cross-hatching and vertical bark-finish/satin textures on the links and bezel.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Expect an Eagle's Head (French 18K hallmark) on the case back or lugs, and the movement is signed 'LIP'.
Dimensions Estimate
Case diameter approx. 18-22mm; Bracelet width approx. 8-10mm; Length approx. 6.5 to 7.0 inches.
Gemstones & Inlays
None visible; the design relies on geometric metalwork and diamond-cut textures to mimic the sparkle of gemstones.
Clasp & Closure
Fold-over jewelry clasp with a safety catch; integrated into the textured link design.
Chain & Links
Articulated rectangular links featuring a central ribbed section flanked by diamond-cut borders; solid construction with pin joints.
Craftsmanship Details
Precision hand-finishing on the diamond-cut textures; high-quality French articulation in the metal links ensures a soft, fabric-like drape on the wrist.
Authentication Indicators
Correct dial typography for the era; high-quality finishing on link edges; color oxidation indicates solid high-karat gold rather than plating; 'LIP' is a frequent user of solid 18K cases in France.
Origin & Maker
France; manufactured by LIP (Besançon), a historically significant French horological brand.
Era & Period
Mid-Century Modern (Late 1950s to 1960s); characterized by heavy texturing and sculptural yellow gold work popular in the 'Retro' transition.
Age Estimate
Circa 1960-1965.
Cultural Significance
Represents the post-war boom in 'gold-forward' jewelry where the metal's texture was as valued as gemstones for formal evening wear.
Condition Notes
Fair to Good; significant oxidation and dirt buildup around the lugs and bracelet joints. Crystal shows surface scratching. Movement functionality unknown.
Value Estimate
Melt value approx. $900-$1,200 depending on spot price; resale value as a vintage timepiece approx. $1,400-$1,800 depending on movement functionality.
Care & Maintenance
Requires professional ultrasonic cleaning to remove debris from textured links; mechanical movement should be serviced by a watchmaker; store in a soft pouch to prevent scratching.
Similar Items
Vintage Omega Ladymatic, Piaget textured gold watches, or Cartier back-wind cocktail watches from the 1960s.
Interesting Facts
LIP was once the largest watch manufacturer in France and notably gifted a watch to Winston Churchill after WWII.