18K Yellow Gold Retro Ribbed Signet Ring with Citrine
Ring (Cocktail/Signet) · Yellow Gold; likely alloyed with copper and silver to maintain a rich, warm saturation.
Purity: 18K (750 fineness), representing 75% pure gold and 25% alloying metals.
Type
Ring (Cocktail/Signet)
Purity
18K (750 fineness), representing 75% pure gold and 25% alloying metals.
Gold Type
Yellow Gold; likely alloyed with copper and silver to maintain a rich, warm saturation.
Weight
Estimated 12.0 - 18.0 grams based on the thick, stepped-band construction and wide profile.
Description
A substantial and masculine-leaning cocktail ring featuring a tiered, ribbed gold setting that rises to meet a golden-hued gemstone. The architecture of the piece commands attention, combining the weight of a signet ring with the flair of mid-century Italian design.
Key Features
Horizontal tiered ribbing, ergonomic inner shank, and a protective bezel setting for the center stone.
Color & Finish
Deep, rich yellow gold with a high-polish finish on prominent ribs and light intentional oxidation in the grooves for contrast.
Hallmarks & Stamps
Not visible in image; typically located on the inner shank. Likely stamped '750' or with Italian/European maker marks.
Dimensions Estimate
Band width approx. 8mm tapering to 18mm at the head; US Ring Size approx. 9-11.
Gemstones & Inlays
Single large oval or octagonal step-cut Citrine or Yellow Topaz, bezel set, estimated at 3.5 - 5.0 carats.
Clasp & Closure
Not applicable (solid continuous band).
Chain & Links
Non-chain; features a bold, horizontal ribbed or 'tire-tread' link-style texture integrated into the shank.
Craftsmanship Details
Lost-wax casting with professional hand-finishing in the recessed grooves; high-quality bezel setting provides excellent stone security.
Authentication Indicators
Saturated yellow hue consistent with 18K+; lack of 'brassing' suggests solid construction rather than plating; substantial wall thickness.
Origin & Maker
Likely European, specifically Italy or Greece, known for high-carat ribbed gold work (Bulgari or Lalaounis style).
Era & Period
Modern Retro; late 20th-century design influenced by the 1940s Retro-Glamour period.
Age Estimate
Circa 1980s - 1990s based on the bold 'power jewelry' styling and casting technique.
Cultural Significance
Represents the 'Power Dressing' era of the late 20th century, where bold gold jewelry signaled professional success and status.
Condition Notes
Very Good; light surface scratches (swirls) and minor dings on the bezel edge consistent with regular wear. Stone shows minor facet wear.
Value Estimate
$1,200 - $1,800 USD (primarily driven by gold weight and premium for craftsmanship/style).
Care & Maintenance
Clean with warm soapy water and a soft brush. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners if the stone is Citrine to prevent heat-related fractures.
Similar Items
Bulgari 'Parentesi' rings (modular links) or Van Cleef & Arpels 'Philippine' rings (ribbed with hardstone).
Interesting Facts
The 'ribbed' or 'godron' style was popularized by high-end jewelry houses to create a play of light and shadow on gold surfaces without using diamonds.